NATURAL CONTOUR & HIGHLIGHT - A tutorial

Of all things that people have asked me about, I think questions about contouring would be the most popular. Yet I don't think I've given anyone the full answer because my complete process of contouring is complicated (to explain) without either video or writing in detail. And also because I am long-winded as I always try to explain the rationale behind each step as well lol. Since I'm not brave enough to do a full youtube video yet, here is this post to accompany a short one that I've posted on Instagram! (Check it out at @wildbunnyy)

(Sorry I know this isn't the best video you've seen, but it's my first and I had to cut it down from 18 minutes :( )

Start with your foundation and concealer done, but do not set your face with powder yet, unless you're skipping the cream stick part. 

Step 1: Contouring with a cream stick (optional)

A cream stick allows you to do very precise contouring, and is also easy to do since it's just like using a pen. You have great control in 'carving' out your face, essentially placing the shadows where you would like your face to be sharper and smaller. 

• To contour the sides of your face: draw a triangle, matching points from a) top of your ears, towards b) edge of your mouth, but not past where the ends of your eyes are, and back towards c) the middle point of your ear. 
• Shade in the triangle. 

• To contour your nose: draw lines down the side of your nose. The closer those lines are to each other, the sharper your nose will look, but also less natural. If your nose is quite wide naturally, drawing the lines close will make it too unnatural. Find the balance. 
• Draw the lines up and towards your eyes and over the eyelids. You can shade more in at the ends of your eyes. This will help your eyes look more deep set too. 
• Don't connect the lines to your eyebrows, the natural shadows on your face do not fall this way, unless you're a lego character. 

• To contour the chin: Draw lines along your jaw.

• To contour your forehead: Just do the sides if you have a short forehead. Do all around the edges otherwise. If you have a more squared hairline like mine, draw more around the corners of your forehead to make it more rounded and also to look less like you have a receding hair line like a 60yo man.

You can choose to do ONLY cream contouring if you're starting off, since it's easy to see where you're applying. But you can also choose to ADD cream contouring to your contouring routine since it adds another layer and dimension yet prevents your makeup from becoming too cakey.

Step 2: Blend in the cream with a damp beauty blender/sponge

Use more tapping motions, rather rubbing. Dragging the sponge around may take your foundation and concealer off. Especially if you've spent time covering up scars, you want to gently tap in your contour cream to prevent your concealer from moving, especially since it hasn't been set yet. 

• For under your cheekbones: As you tap in the cream, try not to move the colour around too much, or it could look muddy. Try to stay within the triangle, blending out the edges. You can blend it downwards not too far, but don't blend it up or you'll end up hiding your cheek bones rather than accentuating it. 

• Jaws:Make sure you blend this in properly. Blend downwards. 

Step 3: Set your face with translucent powder

Lightly dust translucent powder all over your face with a powder brush. If you want even more precise contouring, use a damp beauty blender and bake right under the eyes and between your cheekbone contour and jawline contour. 

A light dusting of powder will make other powder products easier to apply and blend.

Step 4: Use a cool contour powder to emphasize the shadows on your face.

Just like shadows, cool toned powders have a touch of gray in them. They are much better in carving out your face than using warm bronzers. Warm toned bronzers warm up your face and give you that tanned glow, but will not make your face look as chiseled as a cool toned contour powder will. 

I use a small contour brush to put this powder right where I want the 'shadows' on my face to look the darkest. I.e right in the hollows of my cheeks, eyes, and along my hair line. 

If you're tanned, using too much of  a cool toned powder can make you look muddy, so be as precise as possible. If you're fair, you can get away with using just this on your face, but make sure the colour isn't too dark. 

Step 5: Use a warm bronzing/contour powder to blend it all in

This will add colour back to your face, and you don't have to be too exact. Use an angled contour brush, and go over all the areas you have shaded on your face. 

Use a small fluffy brush to do your nose and eyes.

Step 6: Use a warm toned highlighter all over

Most Asians have warm skin tones. Warm toned highlighters hence look more natural - such as peach, gold or champagne highlighters. Use these along the top of your cheekbones, center of your forehead (if you have a small forehead, if not keep it close to the center of your brows) and on your cupid's bow. 

On your nose, do an exclamation mark ! with your highlighter rather than just a straight line which makes it more unnatural. You can also go over that break in your ! lightly with contour powder. If you find that your nose contour looks less 'sharp' and defined after doing this, you can contour your nose again with a flat eyeshadow brush to draw the lines. 

Step 7: Use a cool toned highlighter to emphasize the high points

Cool toned highlighters tend to have a bluish or purplish undertone to them, but they also look less natural on the face. They look great on camera, but since I prefer a more 'natural' look, I only use these highlighters in small areas. 

Use these on the tip of the nose, and on the highest point of your cheekbones. 

Step 8 (optional): If you find that your face looks too contoured or harsh, gently dust translucent powder over your face to soften the look.

Step 9: Spray setting mists to set your face

This will also help to 'melt' the powders you have applied and prevent you from looking cakey! If you don't have setting sprays, facial mists will do too, but use more fine mists if possible. 

Okay I've tried to keep this short and sweet yet detailed! Note that this isn't THE best guide to contouring, and it's best only if you want a more naturally chiseled look. I've found this to be the best looking for both on and off camera. Of course you can apply more and bake to be even more sculpted, and you can also follow only a few steps to tone it down. 

Either ways, I hope this has helped you! As always, let me know if you have any questions. ^^

Till next time, 

Val <3